It's In The Pistou Yo!

Have you been to the farmer's market lately? It is awesomely abundant with everything from fat leaves of basil to pork feet, summer squash and fennel bulbs. There are even fresh shelling beans! I realize this may sound odd and even rude, but these things remind me of my Grandmother.



Raymond Burel is a no-nonsense kind of woman. She'll tell it to you straight and kick you out of the kitchen. I would have liked to inherit her generous bosom and delicate skin, but I am happy just to have retained her bossy attitude and loud laugh.

One of the no-nonsense things she makes is Soupe au Pistou, summer minestrone with special sauce. (It's in the Pistou yo!) If you google minestrone, you will find it described as poor peasant food or an assembly of leftovers. I don't think it a coincidence that good food has peasant roots and I do think it a travesty that simple farm food is now considered fancy and exclusive. What are we doing about this?

Although I have no answer to this problem (public health-insurance option?) I can provide some consolation: this soup does not require pig's feet. Some sausage or salt pork will do and may be avoided entirely if you're vegetarian or super broke. Most of the other ingredients can be found at farmers markets right now, but not for long! The season of plenty is coming to a close and it is getting windy. Thanksully, Soupe au Pistou is delicious and cheaper than gortex- fifteen bucks will buy enough organic produce to warm all of your friends, or just two for an entire week!

For the Soup:
1 c. (1/2 lb.) red beans
1 c. white beans
bay leaf
thyme
parsley
garlic gloves
1 ounce of salt pork
2 pork sausages
1 tbs salt
6 c. water + 2 quarts of water
1 fennel bulb or celery, chopped
2 fresh red potatoes, quartered
1 leek or fresh onion, sliced into 1/2" thick pieces
2 carrots, same
1 zuccini squash, same
1 c. green or romano beans, stems removed and cut into 1" pieces


1 c. small shell pasta

For the Pistou:
one bunch of basil
1 fresh tomato
4 tbs. olive oil
2-3 garlic cloves

1 c. grated parmesan or asiago cheese for topping

Boil the beans, herbs, salt and two garlic cloves and salt pork in 5 cups of water for about one hour. Sauté the sausage whole, in garlic and olive oil, with potatoes, leek, carrot and fennel for 5-10 minutes. Remove the sausage and slice into bite size pieces. Once the beans are tender add the meat and sautéed vegetables. Add 6 pints of water and simmer for another 1/2 hour. Add the green beans and zuccini and simmer for another 15 minutes. Using a wooden spatula or large fork, mash the softened potatoes against the side of the pot to thicken the broth. Add the pasta and simmer for one minute then reduce the heat to low to keep warm.

With a hand blender or food processor, make a paste with the basil, tomato, olive oil and garlic.

Mix a tablespoon of raw pistou into each serving and top with grated cheese. This recipe makes 12+ servings.

Some tips:
If you use dried beans, soak them over night and drain them twice- once before pre-cooking and again before adding other ingredients. Pre-cook the dry beans for about three hours without salt. Add the salt later to avoid tough beans.
If you use dried herbs to flavor the broth make a bouquet garni; wrap the herbs with butcher twine and remove before serving.
One can also replace the salt pork with another sausage.
Make pistou soon before serving because it will brown and lose taste with age.