September is the most diverse month for my parking-strip vegetable-boutique. The second crop of arugula has sprung, more roots are ready, peppers and squash almost over and tomatoes, at their peak. This hodgpodge of plenty has forced me to dig for unifying themes. You can shop for what you need, but cooking with what you have is far more rewarding. Here are my three best creations of the week.
Polenta and Sun-fruit Lasagna
tomato, 3/4 lb, sliced 1/4" thick (I used Big Beef)
summer squash, 3/4 lb, sliced 1/8" thick (Patty Pan for me)
small peppers, stems removed (3 Padron's Chilis on hand)
garlic, 2 cloves
basil or parsley, ~1/4 c
fresh rosemary or thyme, 2 tsp. chopped
olive oil, 2 tbs
ground pepper/salt
polenta, 1 c
Parmigiano-Reggiano, 1/3 c
feta or mozzarella, 1/3 c, moz with sweet pepper, feta with pimientos
Preheat oven to 350.
Gently sear each side of the squash in olive oil, minced garlic and herbs. Do the same with the tomato slices, but quickly and at a high enough temperature to avoid extracting the juices. If you are using fleshier peppers, bell or sweet, slice them into strips and sear them also before baking.
Meanwhile, bring 3 cups of water and 1 tsp salt to a boil. Add the polenta and reduce to medium-low heat. Stir until the polenta thickens, about 10 minutes. Use a long wooden spoon because bubbly-polenta burns. Take off heat and mix in the parmesian cheese.
Spread half of polenta mixture in an oiled baking dish. Cover with a layer of tomato slices, squash and peppers, and a few slices of feta. Repeat with another layer of polenta, tomato, squash/pepper and remaining cheese.
Bake for about 40 minutes, until golden brown.
I added some arugula walnut pesto (fresh arugula, olive oil, garlic, salt and olive oil). Tasty!
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Petits Fours - Tomates Provençales
Provencale-style tomatoes are a summer staple in - you guessed it - Provence. My Grandmother fries the tomatoes (halved) in a little olive oil, then packs the fleshy side with garlic, thyme and parsley and lets them cook on medium-low with the lid on for about 45 minutes...I think. I have many fond memories of eating provençale-style tomatoes with a grilled lamb-chop, or cold the next day on a crunchy baguette.
Another delicious story begins with Petits Fours. Fresh from the pastry shop, we enjoyed these on special Sundays with a drink before lunch. Little crunchy pastry dough filled with savory treats like cheese and sausage and baked in the oven. Hence the name, little ovens.
This story ends with the Isis Candy Tomato, of which we have two happy plants this year. Isis is a juicy, small red tomato, but bigger than a cherry tomato. Perfect for roasting. So now you see where we're headed. Little tomatoes stuffed with garlic and herbs then slow roasted in the oven. Perfect for savoring en apéritif.
tomatoes, halved at the equator, about 16 Isis-types
olive oil, plenty of
garlic, 2-3 cloves, chopped extra fine or pressed
thyme, ~ 1 tbs fresh, chopped or 2 tbs dried
parsley, chopped, give or take 1/4 c
Preheat oven to 300.
Arrange your gems in a baking dish. A cookie sheet will do but some depth is ideal for catching the juices, which caramelize into a spread perfect for a savory tartine. Pour a few drops of olive oil over each lil' tomato. Sprinkle with fleur de sel, freshly ground black pepper and dried thyme or pack in the fresh thyme in pinches. Top each tomato with a tsp of minced parsley. I used basil and extra thyme because I forgot to plant parsley this year, but this really needs parsley to taste right.
Place in the middle of the oven and bake for about an hour, depending on juiciness, size and level flavor intensity desired.
I served these on a toasted baguettes for easy handling and with a glass of red, they disappeared fast!
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Red Barn Pot-au-Feu
I know, Pot-au Feu is meant for winter, when you can spend the day in a food-coma by the side of a roaring fire (or gas furnace in my case). Traditionally, pot-au-feu consists of boiled meat and vegetables served with dijon and cornichons, but who eats boils meat in the summer? Replacing the meat with homemade mayonnaise and a fleshy tomato, and the pickles with fresh radish, makes the Red Barn version of this dish perfect for transitioning into Fall. The homemade mayo, adapted from Orangette's Sauce Gribiche, is a bit milder than a mayo made with raw yolks.
some or all of the following:
beets, halved, or if they are big, quartered into 1" pieces
turnips, same
potatoes, same
onions, same dimensions and pricked with a clove or two
carrots, left whole, for large industrial types, cut into 3" long strips
cabbage, quartered into 4x4" parts
leeks, large leeks halved the long way
1 egg
chives
parsley
tarragon
dill
salt + pepper
canola oil, 1/2 c, cold
olive oil, 1/4 c, cold
2 tbs white wine vineger
Fill your steaming pot with 2 inches of water and bring to a boil. Meanwhile cook the egg. Place the egg in a small pot of cold water. When it begins to boil remove from heat. Allow the egg to sit in hot water for 15 minutes. While you steam the vegetables (for about 15 minutes) peel the egg. Mash the yolk, which should be hardened but still yellow and moist, in a small bowl. Add some salt and whisk in the oil, a little at a time. Once you get a mayo-like consistency add pepper, the finely chopped egg white, chopped herbs and vinegar.
Lay the steamed veg out on a platter next to some radishes and a big juicy tomato, delicately cut into quarters. Enjoy the vegetables topped with sauce.
* steam red cabbage and beets separate from leeks, onions, golden beets and carrots if you care about color
Friday, September 4, 2009
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